Style Station: Dissecting Denim For All Body Types

By Virginia Ta

Oh, denim. How I love thee. What else in my closet can be dressed up or down as easily (besides your longtime companion, the t-shirt) and still make perfect style sense? Of course I know as simple as you seem, you’re a complex article of clothing that most people don’t take the time to figure out and therefore, often misjudge you. I get it. But because I love you so much, I think it’s only right that we show the world who you are. You are, after all, an American staple (the rumors are true).

Petite and Short Figures

Petite figured femmes, the main goal is always to elongate the frame. Search for shorter inseams, meaning the length from the crotch to the bottom of the pant leg, and pay attention to the details. Take notice to where the knee breaks in the jean, which is where the knee ends and the calf begins. If it doesn’t match with your own anatomy, move on to the next pair. Another imperative detail to take note to is where the pockets fall. Make sure that the back pocket squares are placed over the derriere, never under. Having them sit too low in the back will only cut into your leg length. In terms of fit, petite frames should stick with straighter, slimmer cuts for a more long and lean look. Wearing denim with heels can also help lengthen the leg, however if doing so, make sure that the jeans end right at floor-length for maximum leg length.

Recommended Brands: AG, Citizens of Humanity, Diesel, Urban Outfitters BDG.

Tall Figures

For lengthy ladies, balance is key. Stick with higher rises, meaning the length from the crotch to the waistband. A higher rise will help balance out the long torso to leg length ratio. If you have longer legs, also look for longer inseams. Not all denim is made equal! Plenty of designer denim lines now have a range with longer inseams to help cater to your specific anatomy, meaning that you’ll be able to wear heels with your jeans without looking like you accidentally shrunk your pants in the dryer.

Recommended Brands: Rock & Republic, Seven For All Mankind, Cheap Mondays.

Slim or Straight Figures

For the slim and straight set, there’s a wide array of denim made specifically for you. No shape? Forget that. Create the illusion of curves by seeking denim that has a little stretch in its fabric. Not only will this ensure a better fit, meaning no more baggy-butt-syndrome, but the close-fitting fabric will also help play up the assets you do have. Boot cut and flare shaped denim will also further emphasize a curvier look, however, whatever cut you choose, make sure you stick with stretch. Lastly, make sure your back pockets sit higher on your derriere for extra perk points.

Recommended Brands: True Religion, Citizens of Humanity, Joe’s Jeans.

Full and Curvy Figures

Full figured and curvy ladies, fight the gap! Say goodbye to gaping at the waist by searching for jeans that are both roomy in the hips and derriere, but fitted in the waist. Easier said than done, you say? Look for stretch, stretch, and stretch. Denim with a good amount of stretch will hug your body in all the right places while also conforming to your curves. Also, choose straighter cuts to help streamline and balance your figure. Peg legs and other tapered cuts will only make you look wider than you are. Just remember that the ankle should be the same width as the knee.

Recommended Brands: Paige, Citizens For All Humanity, Miss Sixty.

Hair Today, Gone ?

By Susan Maneechai

As tears slide toward my jawbones, between the short-wave pulses the electrologist sends to destroy the hair follicle, I realize I have come full circle in my quest for a hairless upper lip. Throughout this journey, which started nearly twenty-one years ago, I have willingly, eagerly, succumbed to what the beauty world has offered to rid my fair complexion of those noticeably dark hairs. Having spent hours lying on spa tables and hundreds, if not thousands of dollars, I feel it’s only proper to share my acquired knowledge with you.

Each of the four methods below starts with my upper lip being wiped with alcohol or other astringent to remove oil, make-up, dirt, and germs, and ends with a light application of lotion to soothe any skin irritation.

Two methods, waxing and threading, provide temporary hair removal. Continued overtime, regrowth is softer and sparser. Both are relatively inexpensive.

Waxing

Method: Using a tongue depressor-like wood stick, warmed wax is

alternately applied to three areas: each side of mustache and

under the nose. A muslin cloth or paper strip is firmly pressed

on top of the wax before being quickly ripped off against the

direction of hair growth. And voila!

Pain level: Like ripping off a band-aid.

Duration: 2-8 weeks.

Side Effects: Ingrown hairs, red bumps, minor bleeding, infection.

Pro: Widely available, costs $6-$20.00.

Con: Not for women using Accutane, retinoid products (Retin-A, Differin),

alpha hydroxy exfoliation products, or with sunburned skin, varicose

veins.

Do: Use common sense when selecting a place. A nail technician may give

fabulous manis and pedis, but may be less adept at handling drippy

wax. (Although she diligently removed it from my hair). Consider too

that cheaper may not mean better. A $6.00 wax actually cost me

$47.00. ($20 for the dermatologist’s copay, $2.oo for parking, and

$25.00 for the antibiotic after an allergic reaction to the wax became

infected.

Don’t: Tan 24-48 hours prior to appointment since it increases skin

sensitivity.

Apply moisturizer day of appointment.

Another waxing method exists where softened wax is applied to area, cools and hardens before being lifted off, taking the unwanted hairs with it. I’ve never seen this offered in the D.C. Metro area.

Threading

Method: A thin, pure cotton thread is twisted into a bow tie shape then

rolled over the hair pulling it out at the follicle level.

Pain level: A slight plucking sensation.

Duration: 2-4 weeks

Side Effects: Skin irritation, infection from unclean thread.

Pro: Ideal for pubescent girls, costs $5-15.00

Con: Not widely available, not for women allergic to cotton fibers.

Do: Try it for eyebrows too.

Don’t: Be concerned if you see the beautician put the thread ends in her

mouth.

After several years of using these methods, I decided to seek a permanent solution. I tried three laser treatments at a local med-spa with mixed results, not to mention a large drop in my savings account.

Laser

Method: Laser energy (light) travels through the skin, targets the melanin

found in the dark hairs, and enters the hair follicles where the heat

disables the follicle. Generally, two-three pulses given

during treatment.

Pain Level: Intense heat sensation, forced air cooling uncomfortable.

Duration: Not sure. Hairs shed a week or two following treatment. Staff at a

local med-spa said touch–ups will be needed due to hormonal

changes that can cause more growth

Side Effects: Burning or skin discoloration, increase in acne,

Hypopigmentation (white spots).

Pro: Widely available at med-spas and dermatology offices.

Con: Multiple treatments required, 3-8 at 4 weeks apart depending on hair

type/growth; expensive, a series of six ranges from $360-750.00.

Do: Know that the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has declared this as

a method for hair reduction, not permanent removal. The FDA evaluates

each type of laser manufactured.

Don’t: Use this method until two years after puberty has ended.

Unsure of what to do next, I consulted my dermatologist, Dr. Fuchs, a Top Doctor according to Washingtonian’s “Best of” 2008 issue. Consider his advice, “laser is for large areas and electrolysis for smaller areas, or areas with few hairs.” A recommendation from Dr. Fuchs brought me to the privately-owned office of electrologist Sandy Klein. She patiently answered my questions about the three types-Galvanic (obsolete), Thermolysis (AC Short-wave-her method), Blend (a combo of the two). She took a brief history of the problem area and my overall health. She decided it would be better to give four moderate pulses per follicle than two at higher volts. The degree of intensity is determined by examining the type of hair, skin reaction and pain threshold.   Afterwards, she handed me after-care instructions and two small packets of Bacitracin Zinc ointment.

Electrolysis

Method: A thin, disposable, sterile probe (needle) slides into each hair

follicle to allow the electricity to travel down into the hair follicle.

Short-wave current heat destroys hair root at bottom of follicle.

Pain: Relatively mild- a light pricking sensation. Under nose area more

sensitive, hence my involuntary tears.

Duration: Permanent once hair follicle is destroyed.

Side effects: Redness, skin irritation, slight scabbing, infection from

unsterilized needles, scarring from improper use.

Pro: Costs-15 minutes from $30-50.00,30 minutes from $45-70.00; suitable

for all hair colors.

Con: Repeated visits, treatments may average two years, not for women

using Accutane.

Do: Know the FDA claims this method to be permanent.

Don’t: Get alarmed by the zapping sounds. “The heat is encountering either

moisture or oil within the follicle,” said Sandy.

Looking back on it all, I wish I’d done more research or asked more in-depth questions about procedures or qualifications early on, instead of trusting salon/spa personnel. May this information help you in determining how best to treat unwanted facial or body hair.

On Trial: Does Using High-End Foundations Really Pay Off?

by Virginia Ta

The beauty masses can all agree that a beautiful face starts at flawless skin, but less defined is the answer on how to achieve it. Unfortunately, most women are not blessed with the perfectly smooth and supple, even-toned, blemish-free complexions that we see gracing the pages and covers of most major magazines. Thankfully, that hasn’t stopped the beauty-conscious from putting their best faces forward thanks to the magic of foundation. But, how does one go about finding the perfect formula?

MAC, Chanel, Cargo, NARS, Vincent Longo, Smashbox— the list of foundation brands go on and on, and all of them claim to be the latest and greatest in creating tone, texture, and youth. But which ones are really worth their more-often-than-not hefty price tags?

Equipped with a large wad of cash and a bare face, I set out to put two of the most disputably popular high-end foundations to the Powder Room test, and to discover whether shelling out top dollar for your cosmetics can really buy you beautiful skin.

1. Chanel Vitalumière Satin Smoothing Fluid

As of one Chanel’s best selling foundations, Vitalumière has garnered a reputation as one of the best and most natural looking foundations available, earning the brand legions of firm believers in this revitalizing formula. Available in 14 different shades ranging from a very light toned ivory to a deep chestnut shade, Vitalumière is packaged in a glass bottle with a hygienic pump top, allowing for optimal dispensing control— which comes in handy since this precious fluid is priced at $52 for a fluid oz.

As for the formula, which is only slightly thicker than water consistency, it applies incredibly smooth, easily blending into a soft, glowing result. It is because of the lightness of the formula that the foundation is able to glide so easily, appearing almost like a second skin. The light formula also has another advantage, as it allows buildable coverage, making it versatile for both sheer and full-coverage foundation wearers. The only major cons of this foundation are that although it applies light, it seems to leave a slightly tacky feel to the skin, as if it never completely dries.

Also, although the foundation fancies itself a Satin finish, which is considered a middle ground between dewy and matte, it definitely imparts a not entirely unwelcome sheen that borders on being a completely dewy formula. This may not be a problem for dry and normal skin types, which this foundation is best suited for, but oily skinned ladies— proceed with caution as it does tend to appear sweat-like by midday.

Final Verdict: Does a good job at blurring blemishes and fine lines with its light formula, contains SPF 15, and is packed with nut extracts that guard against skin-damaging free radicals, but at $52, this tacky-to-the-touch foundation should also feel as real as it looks.

2. Make Up For Ever HD High Definition Foundation

As a part of Make Up For Ever’s HD range, made specifically “for the new needs of high definition image,” this ultra light, ultra natural looking, oil-free foundation is said to create a complexion that looks flawless, even in bright or harsh lighting, and has become a fast celebrity favorite. Packaged in a plastic cylinder bottle, it also features a convenient pump top, and is impressively available in 25 different shades that are sure to suit almost any skin tone. Slightly thicker in consistency than Vitalumière, the success of the foundation’s overall look strongly relies on its method of application. The secret to getting the most even and natural looking result with the HD formula is to apply it with a kabuki brush. Though the short, dense kabuki brush is most commonly associated with applying powders, it seems to be made for this foundation as it amazingly mimics real skin when lightly dipped into a small amount of the foundation, stippled and then buffed into the face. What you have afterwards is skin that looks like your own but way better. The use of the kabuki brush also allows for less formula to be used, as a little goes a long way with this product. This, in short, means saving cash in the long run, which is a huge perk since a fluid oz. bottle costs $40.

But I dare say that this foundation is worth every penny as it provides the advantages of a medium to full coverage formula but somehow has the feel of wearing almost nothing at all, and even better, looks just as natural. That said, its finish is neither completely matte nor full-on dewy, but exactly as advertised: it looks like healthy, natural glowing skin. But like natural skin, this foundation may require a midday touchup as it won’t keep your skin matte all day. A possible explanation for its midday sheen may be due to one of the formula’s ingredients, Relipidium, which helps moisturize the skin.

Final Verdict: As true beauty connoisseurs might say, this is almost “Holy Grail” material. Sure, it may not contain any UV protection like Vitalumière, and yes, it still costs more than most foundations at $40 a pop, but with a formula that creates skin that looks as naturally flawless as this, you can afford to sacrifice a little for a whole lot.

You Are What Your Hair Eats : Finding Food Alternatives to Hair Styling Products

by Danika Stegeman

About a month ago, I was watching and episode of Bravo’s Shear Genius (don’t judge me) and the contestants competed in a challenge for which they could use only food products to style their clients’ hair. The guest judge was a celebrity stylist named Robert Hallowell, a.k.a. “the kitchen beautician.” When I had a real job before graduate school, and could afford it, I used to use up to eight products in my hair to style it each day (don’t judge me). It look amazing. However, I ran out of money and began to feel dirty about all the chemicals I was washing down the sink each day. Shear Genius inspired me. Helping the environment and saving money sound very appealing to me, but nowhere on the internet could I discover the practical applications and logistics of using food products to style hair. How much mayo should I put in my hair? A dime-sized amount? What will it do exactly? How difficult is it to remove honey from hair? Will bugs attack me if my hair smells like food? I decided to answer these questions for myself and you, dear readers, by trying a few food items out as styling products on my very own head.

I decided whether to put certain ingredients in my hair while it was dry or while it was wet depending upon the consistency of the ingredient. Honey and mayonnaise are generally wetter ingredients and most closely resemble hair products I have generally put in my hair before drying, such as mousse, gel, or volumizer. Ingredients like peanut butter have a slightly drier or more solid consistency, so I used them after my hair was dry, like one does with a pomade or hair wax.

Honey:

I decided to tackle honey with my tresses first because it smells nice and its consistency seems to most resemble hair product. Goodness, am I wrong about those two things. I discover that the former is untrue immediately as I put a nickel-sized amount in my hair while it is wet. Suddenly, my hair smells like a dirty t-shirt. Do not fret, the smell became more pleasant and honey-like as my hair dried.

Drying my hair did, however, prove difficult. I tried to use a blow dryer, but had to stop half way through. The honey had become too viscous in my hair to continue without feeling I would pull some of my hair out. So very quickly I discovered I was also wrong about thing two: honey is not like any hair product I have ever used. In fact, despite what you may be thinking from this description, it is better. For exactly three reasons:

1) Honey has super-hold properties. I put the honey in my hair at approximately 10 AM. It held until 1 AM when I went to sleep. When I woke up, it was still going strong. I washed it out because I was curious to see how well it would come out, but I believe I could have left it in for at least another day.

2) You can shape your hair like anything when honey is in it. I have used a lot of hair products in my days to manipulate it in to strange shapes. Usually, I had to use volatile 6-product combinations (volumizing cream, welding gel, pomade, hair wax, hair spray, shine enhancer) to achieve the desired effect. Honey did all this in one, and held much longer.

3) Honey washes out very easily and actually made my hair feel healthier after I washed it. It was shinier and felt stronger. If I knew more about science, I would tell you why. All I can say is that hair and bee spit get along very well.

I should warn that honey is not for everyone. I like to shape my hair in weird ways and I like it to stay in place for long stretches of time. It would, however, not look good if I had not shaped it in to an avant-garde style up-do. Also, be forewarned that your hair, even when dry, will look a bit wet and will feel slightly crunchy to the touch. For me, it was worth it. I will continue to put honey in my hair.

Mayo:

Because it seems creamier than honey, I put about a quarter-sized dollop of mayo in my hair. I did so while it was wet. I was a bit concerned about the smell of the mayo, because unlike honey, peanut butter, or raspberry jam, it generally does not smell very nice. I was afraid I would have to walk around all day smelling like sulfur or worse. In my wet hair, I was surprised to find it did not smell as bad as the honey. It blended better with my shampoo and sort of smelled like sandwich and shampoo at the same time. It remained the same when I dried it.

The affect of the mayo on my hair took effect almost immediately as I blow dried it. It got a little chunkier and a lot greasier. I was able, at least, to finish blow drying, unlike with the immoveable honey, but I was not all that pleased with the results. Basically, my hair looks shiny and greasy, an effect I could get simply by not washing it for about a week. I wonder if I had frizzier hair or if it had been a more humid day, I would have appreciated mayo’s effects more. It definitely makes my hair easier to manipulate and I do not have any rogue flyaway strands, but it never looks dry, and I would still need hairspray to hold it in place.

As the day proceeds, my hair looks slightly less dirty but the sandwich smell becomes less bearable. I had to wash mayo out two hours after I used it. But if you have a problem with frizz or want to impress your gutter punk friends with your dirtiness, you may want to give mayo a try.

Salt/Sugar:

I was not sure what salt or sugar could possibly do to one’s hair that is desirable, but the stylist’s used it on Shear Genius, so I wanted to try to find out. After putting both salt and sugar in my hair, I still do not know what is good about doing so.

Salt has more redeeming qualities. Under florescent lights, salt sort of looks like glitter. Sugar, however, just looks like dandruff or lice eggs no matter what light I stand under. I was afraid these two ingredients would fall out of my hair as the day progressed, but they did not. They actually nestled close to my scalp, which was worse than if they had fallen out of my hair, because it made my scalp extremely gross feeling.

So, essentially, if you are looking for an alternative to hair glitter, try salt. Otherwise, stick to using salt and sugar on your eggs and cereal, respectively.

Peanut Butter/Nutella:

I put peanut butter in my hair after I had already dried it. After spooning some out of the jar, I dipped two fingertips in and then rubbed it on the fingertips of my other hand, as one would usually do for a stickier pomade. It actually felt about the same exact consistency of a pomade on my fingers. When I put it in my hair, it was not quite as sticky, but worked nicely as a light pomade.

It smelled strongly of peanut butter most of the day, but held nicely without clumping. Peanut butter left the hair freer than most pomades I have used, so if you want a stronger hold, you may still need to use hairspray. But it washed out easily and worked satisfactorily overall.

After using the peanut butter, I decided to try Nutella as a pomade, because I thought its stickier consistency might hold better, and since Europeans are often stereotypically viewed as more sophisticated than Americans when it comes to both fashion and what one should spread on breakfast foods.

I am glad I tried this experiment. While peanut butter was a satisfactory pomade, Nutella was an awesome one. First off, the smell of the Nutella was much more subtle than that of the peanut butter. The Nutella also had a stronger hold and made my hair a bit shinier, as any better than average pomade should do. If you are looking for a pomade substitute, Nutella is probably the way to go, but peanut butter will also do. You win again, Europe.

This is all the further I got in my food as hair product exploration. Look for future articles as I continue to experiment. Thus far, none of the products I have used have attracted bugs. This is more than I can say for many of the non-food item hair products I have used in the past. I have yet to find a good food product volumizer or shampoo (I really wanted to make sure I got the food out of my hair after it had served its purpose, and didn’t experiment with any food cleansers), so if there are any suggestions out there, feel free to comment. At any rate, here are a few do’s (I, for one, am going to continue with the honey and Nutella) and don’t’s (mayo…shudder) for feeding your hair.