Hair Today, Gone ?

By Susan Maneechai

As tears slide toward my jawbones, between the short-wave pulses the electrologist sends to destroy the hair follicle, I realize I have come full circle in my quest for a hairless upper lip. Throughout this journey, which started nearly twenty-one years ago, I have willingly, eagerly, succumbed to what the beauty world has offered to rid my fair complexion of those noticeably dark hairs. Having spent hours lying on spa tables and hundreds, if not thousands of dollars, I feel it’s only proper to share my acquired knowledge with you.

Each of the four methods below starts with my upper lip being wiped with alcohol or other astringent to remove oil, make-up, dirt, and germs, and ends with a light application of lotion to soothe any skin irritation.

Two methods, waxing and threading, provide temporary hair removal. Continued overtime, regrowth is softer and sparser. Both are relatively inexpensive.

Waxing

Method: Using a tongue depressor-like wood stick, warmed wax is

alternately applied to three areas: each side of mustache and

under the nose. A muslin cloth or paper strip is firmly pressed

on top of the wax before being quickly ripped off against the

direction of hair growth. And voila!

Pain level: Like ripping off a band-aid.

Duration: 2-8 weeks.

Side Effects: Ingrown hairs, red bumps, minor bleeding, infection.

Pro: Widely available, costs $6-$20.00.

Con: Not for women using Accutane, retinoid products (Retin-A, Differin),

alpha hydroxy exfoliation products, or with sunburned skin, varicose

veins.

Do: Use common sense when selecting a place. A nail technician may give

fabulous manis and pedis, but may be less adept at handling drippy

wax. (Although she diligently removed it from my hair). Consider too

that cheaper may not mean better. A $6.00 wax actually cost me

$47.00. ($20 for the dermatologist’s copay, $2.oo for parking, and

$25.00 for the antibiotic after an allergic reaction to the wax became

infected.

Don’t: Tan 24-48 hours prior to appointment since it increases skin

sensitivity.

Apply moisturizer day of appointment.

Another waxing method exists where softened wax is applied to area, cools and hardens before being lifted off, taking the unwanted hairs with it. I’ve never seen this offered in the D.C. Metro area.

Threading

Method: A thin, pure cotton thread is twisted into a bow tie shape then

rolled over the hair pulling it out at the follicle level.

Pain level: A slight plucking sensation.

Duration: 2-4 weeks

Side Effects: Skin irritation, infection from unclean thread.

Pro: Ideal for pubescent girls, costs $5-15.00

Con: Not widely available, not for women allergic to cotton fibers.

Do: Try it for eyebrows too.

Don’t: Be concerned if you see the beautician put the thread ends in her

mouth.

After several years of using these methods, I decided to seek a permanent solution. I tried three laser treatments at a local med-spa with mixed results, not to mention a large drop in my savings account.

Laser

Method: Laser energy (light) travels through the skin, targets the melanin

found in the dark hairs, and enters the hair follicles where the heat

disables the follicle. Generally, two-three pulses given

during treatment.

Pain Level: Intense heat sensation, forced air cooling uncomfortable.

Duration: Not sure. Hairs shed a week or two following treatment. Staff at a

local med-spa said touch–ups will be needed due to hormonal

changes that can cause more growth

Side Effects: Burning or skin discoloration, increase in acne,

Hypopigmentation (white spots).

Pro: Widely available at med-spas and dermatology offices.

Con: Multiple treatments required, 3-8 at 4 weeks apart depending on hair

type/growth; expensive, a series of six ranges from $360-750.00.

Do: Know that the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has declared this as

a method for hair reduction, not permanent removal. The FDA evaluates

each type of laser manufactured.

Don’t: Use this method until two years after puberty has ended.

Unsure of what to do next, I consulted my dermatologist, Dr. Fuchs, a Top Doctor according to Washingtonian’s “Best of” 2008 issue. Consider his advice, “laser is for large areas and electrolysis for smaller areas, or areas with few hairs.” A recommendation from Dr. Fuchs brought me to the privately-owned office of electrologist Sandy Klein. She patiently answered my questions about the three types-Galvanic (obsolete), Thermolysis (AC Short-wave-her method), Blend (a combo of the two). She took a brief history of the problem area and my overall health. She decided it would be better to give four moderate pulses per follicle than two at higher volts. The degree of intensity is determined by examining the type of hair, skin reaction and pain threshold.   Afterwards, she handed me after-care instructions and two small packets of Bacitracin Zinc ointment.

Electrolysis

Method: A thin, disposable, sterile probe (needle) slides into each hair

follicle to allow the electricity to travel down into the hair follicle.

Short-wave current heat destroys hair root at bottom of follicle.

Pain: Relatively mild- a light pricking sensation. Under nose area more

sensitive, hence my involuntary tears.

Duration: Permanent once hair follicle is destroyed.

Side effects: Redness, skin irritation, slight scabbing, infection from

unsterilized needles, scarring from improper use.

Pro: Costs-15 minutes from $30-50.00,30 minutes from $45-70.00; suitable

for all hair colors.

Con: Repeated visits, treatments may average two years, not for women

using Accutane.

Do: Know the FDA claims this method to be permanent.

Don’t: Get alarmed by the zapping sounds. “The heat is encountering either

moisture or oil within the follicle,” said Sandy.

Looking back on it all, I wish I’d done more research or asked more in-depth questions about procedures or qualifications early on, instead of trusting salon/spa personnel. May this information help you in determining how best to treat unwanted facial or body hair.